The Arizona You’ve Never Seen

Let me preface this by saying that upon reaching our camping destination in the mountaintop region of the Mogollon Rim (pronounced “moe-ghee-on”) we discovered that the digital camera was not only dead of charge, but that any additional batteries were not packed so no actual footage exists of our recent jaunt. I’m forced to provide stock photography of an area of Arizona that gets little press.

When you hear the word Arizona, it’s highly likely two images come to mind. The first is, of course, an image of a cactus as this particular botanical wonder is the essential calling card of the southwest. (Similarly when you mention the southwest you likely think of Arizona and the poor step-child known as New Mexico gets shafted yet again.) The second visual that represents Arizona is our world famous “Grand Canyon”, one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World and home to over a million visitors a year despite it’s remote location in the north central and northwestern part of the state. Two images that stand proud in most any Arizonans mind. But there is another Arizona that few people outside the state really see that summons me to mention it if only to show that we aren’t that different from the rest of the country and, I think, shows my allegiance to the state of my birth, New Jersey.

My adaptation to living in a desert over 12 summers has taken a variety of turns and cycles. Starting with the novelty of experiencing 110 degrees on a regular basis to growing tolerant of that kind of heat until finally, as in the last few years, I’ve noticed a real and powerful urge to go slightly insane because no one should have to endure this kind of heat. I know, I know, don’t bother…we’ve all heard it a million times, “then don’t move there!” "Well, why the hell would YOU live in a place that freezes for 6 months out of the year…what are you, a bunch of morons?!" That’s what we say. But the truth is, the heat can really get to us just like the cold finally gets to you. Now, it’s a known fact that suicides increase in the winter months around the USA as the sun has retreated for a while and the cold, gray surroundings of people on the fringe can literally play terrible roles in their outlook on life. Sad, but true. While that serotonin is seeping in out here, the rest of the country is suffering from disturbed light cycles, altering body chemistry and seriously affecting one’s mood. Though depression doesn’t care if it’s a nice day or not, having so much sun can be a good thing…but what it does do is start to make you completely lethargic. Even getting up to do chores outside the house can be a drag when the overnight low is in the 88 – 92 degree F range.

It’s all relative as they say, but for the last few years I have noticed a real funk-like atmosphere seem to hover around me during these torrid months. This year has been especially brutal due to the high humidity we’ve experienced during our monsoon months. To survive you just need to get away from it for awhile. Like buying a condo in Boca. It's the same thing...only different. It was this need that pushed us to make the sacrifice and buy ourselves an escape. To buy our camping trailer. Those of you who know me know full well how I brag about my trailer, no doubt to the point of utter boredom. I know it. I’m not an ignoramus all the time. But it’s our little baby so to speak. And since we’re paying out our butts to afford it we’re damn well going to use it. So it was with great pleasure when my dear friend and college roommate, Scott Wasienko, decided to come for another visit this year that I figured what better way to visit Phoenix in the summer than to than leave Phoenix in the summer. He flew out. We packed up and headed north by northwest.

The first thing you notice on the drive up the Beeline highway towards Payson is the slow but drastic change in ecology with each passing mile. From desert rock and cactus, miles of cacti as far as the eye can see, and then the fields begin to thin. Slowly you see the brush growing, changing into bushes and then small trees. After a mere hour on the road you pass along the lower portion of rim country to find forests beginning to form. By the time you hit Payson, AZ you’d think you were in the Delaware Water Gap. Beautiful soaring pines, of all varieties, mix in with oak and cedar along the roadway. Heading east from Payson you begin to see the climb ahead of you as the road gets steeper and steeper towards the top of the rim…the Mogollon Rim of Arizona, an escarpment defining the southwestern edge of the Colorado Plateau. (The region in yellow in the map above) The name Mogollon comes from Don Juan Ignacio Flores Mogollón, Spanish Governor of New Mexico from 1712-1715. When all is said and done, within 2 ½ hours you have climbed approximately 7000 feet in elevation, and you finally realize that this air conditioning you’ve been riding in since Scottsdale is no longer needed. You draw down that window and the cool air just swarms around you as you smell the slight scent of pine touch your nose. It’s a feeling you don’t get much staring at a cactus.

It is these moments when I realize how much I miss four seasons. Believe me, I love a Christmas lit saguaro in December as much as the next Phoenician, but when I pull that trailer into a remote campsite near Bear Canyon Lake, miles off the beaten path and see I’m surrounded by towering Aspens…I feel like I’m in heaven. At least I hope my heaven is like that. Cool pines and the sweet aroma of a crackling campfire. Dawn will be on a beach and I’ll be here, but it’s heaven so I can just open the cloud door and join her for a mojito if I so please.

We were extremely fortunate to have borrowed a 4 wheel drive vehicle (thanks GB!) that we used to unbelievable measure as we discovered trail after trail around the mountainous terrain surrounding the lake. Scott and I took a long trial ride (during a rainstorm, of course) and were certain we were lost. After literally about 10 miles of driving this remote trail we came upon a clearing which turned out to be the literal edge of the Rim. Peering off the rock ledges you can see 2000 feet down. It was amazing! It’s without a doubt a place that we’ll return to as we’ll need relief again soon from the heat.




View from the edge where we stopped.



















Another view from the actual rim



















The steep 1/4 mile walk down to Bear Canyon Lake from where we camped




















Bear Canyon Lake